World War III almost started here
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Checkpoint Charlie, the border crossing between the former West and East Berlin, is where, in 1961, World War III almost began. Euranet's Nik Martin is in the German capital to discover the key role this checkpoint played in the long-running standoff between the Soviets and the West.
Outside the guard’s box at Checkpoint Charlie, three actors dressed up as military policemen, are having their photo taken with tourists. Just to the right of the old border crossing, which by the way is a mock-up - the original is in Berlin’s Alliierten Museum - another guard offers to stamp my passport with the official entry stamps commemorating the separation of Germany. I decline as I’ve been warned that it could invalidate my passport.
It is two days before the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall and as you would expect, Checkpoint Charlie, the border crossing between East and West Germany during the Cold War, is much busier than usual.
Symbolic moment in history
On all four sides of the crossroads, tour guides are explaining to groups coached in from all over Europe the significance of this junction. I overhear one of them describe how World War III could have easily started at this exact spot in October 1961.
He tells the story of how shortly after the Berlin Wall was erected, a stand-off unfolded between Soviet and American tanks. East German guards had broken an agreement made following World War II to ensure that diplomats crossing from the West would have free access to the East. When a US diplomat had his papers checked by the East German border patrol, all hell broke loose.
Both sides sent 10 tanks to Checkpoint Charlie. For 18 hours the tanks, under orders to strike if fired upon, stood facing each other just a hundred metres apart. Fortunately, the Soviets withdrew their tanks after a phone call from US President John F Kennedy.
Although I’m not part of the official tour, the guide has me gripped with this one symbolic moment in history. I’m not sure many of the tourists listening truly comprehend the significance though.
Memories from the Communist period are lost
On what was the East German side, the checkpoint watchtower was torn down in 2000 to make way for new shops and offices. Many Berliners are angry that many Communist era buildings were demolished along with the watchtower and wall. One told me that these buildings should have been retained because of what they represent.
But much of the land around Checkpoint Charlie has still not been developed. Instead, construction boards are being cleverly used as an open air exhibition to recount the story of the Berlin Wall and poignantly tell of the many escape attempts from the East. I watched as many tourists of all ages, walked from end to end, completely absorbed in the photos and written history.
Memories kept alive
Immediately next to the guard’s house, the Mauer Museum Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie has a model of the Isetta, a small car that was carefully constructed to fit under the barrier at the East German borders. Five times a day, documentaries are shown about the Berlin Wall, escape attempts and personal experiences from behind the Iron Curtain.
Another way to experience the history of the Berlin Wall is to walk or cycle much of the former route with a GPS guide with twenty-two points of interest, together with expert and eyewitness interviews on screen.
Even if you can't make it for the anniversary of the fall of the wall, it is worth a visit before many more memories of life in former East Germany vanish forever.
